With all the great ethnic cuisines represented in Chicago, for
me South Asian always seems to be a bit of an afterthought. It’s not that there
aren’t a lot of South Asians living in Chicago. It’s not like there aren’t a
variety of restaurants to choose from. The problem is that many of the Indian/Pakistani
restaurants in Chicago are clustered on Devon Avenue in West Rogers Park. There is no L
line that goes there and the drive is a bit of a pain. Consequently, I don’t get
to grab a curry as often as I would like.
There were a few years where Indian was hands-down my
favorite cuisine. I love that you really use all your senses to experience it.
You smell the fragrant aromas of cumin and turmeric, you see the many shades of
yellow and orange in a vegetable korma, you hear the sizzle of fresh tandoori meat
brought to your table, and you taste the variety of sweet and savory notes.
Traditionally, Indian cuisine is eaten with one’s hands which incorporates one's sense of touch, it just feels good to be so connected with what you’re eating. There is
so much variety, from northern Indian meat curries and tandoori breads to
southern Indian vegetarian fare cooked with coconut milk. From dosas to biryanis, there is no shortage
of tasty options.
I really started to appreciate Indian food while living in
London during my junior year. Being the former capital of the British Empire,
there are many South Asians living in and around London. Indians, Pakistanis,
and Bangladeshis make up a sizable percentage of Greater London’s population.
Consequently, there is no shortage of high quality South Asian food. Indian
food has become such an integral part of British culture that the national dish
of Britain is no longer fish and chips, but Tikka Masala. After spending a year in London and visiting
many times since, I was a bit spoiled. Chicago has a good variety of places to grab a
curry, but not quite on the same level as London.
I recently met with my old friend Bill at Cumin in Bucktown
for dinner. I’ve been meaning to try this place for a
while as it has received Bib Gourmand recognition for the past three years. I
figured Bill would be a good person to go with as he has developed an appreciation
for South Asian fare as a result of his time in London and India.
Papadum w/ Chutneys |
Cumin has two separate menus, one Nepalese and one
Indian. Given that I’ve had Indian a
million times in the UK, US, and India, I figured I would try a couple Nepalese
dishes. As soon as we sat down, our
waiter brought complimentary Papadum out to the table. Papadum is a thin
cracker like snack that is basically India’s answer to chips and salsa. They Papadum
came with green chutney made with mint and coriander as well as sweet tamarind
chutney. The free Papadum was a very nice touch. I frequently see it in London
but find it to be much less common Stateside.
Momo Dumplings |
Next we ordered a dish of traditional Nepalese dumplings
called momo. This was probably the highlight of my meal. These dumplings were
an interesting cross between Indian and Chinese cuisines which makes sense
given the geography of Nepal. While the insides were filled with curried lamb, the
outsides were all Chinese. We also ordered onion pakora. Pakora is a tradition
Indian snack which consists of onions dipped in chickpea flour and deep fried. I
was never a big fan of this dish. Cumin’s version was particularly boring and utterly
flavorless.
Onion Pakora |
Nepalese Goat w/ Tandoori Roti |
Side note: During my meal I ordered a Chakra, an "Indian" beer. Little did I know that Chakra is not actually brewed in India. This beer is made in New Jersey by an Indian company. This infuriates me. When I order an import, I want it to be imported. This beer tasted like Bud Light. I will have to add this to the list of beers that I will never drink which now includes Becks and Fosters. When I order an Indian beer, I demand the flavor that can only come from being brewed with filthy Ganges water.
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